Inside an unassuming grocery store situated in the shadow of Sutro Tower on Arguello Boulevard and Cabrillo Street, a bold proclamation is plastered everywhere.

From a handwritten sign displayed in the front window to the menu board behind the deli counter and the ATM screen that’s tucked into a far corner, it doesn’t take long to spot “Home of the World Famous Turkey Sandwich” at Arguello Market in San Francisco — it’s even printed on the back of the store’s popular crewneck sweatshirts and on the bottom of every receipt. 

The deli sign at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

A sign of the window at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

A receipt at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

A customer opens up the wrapping paper for a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE
Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

The shelves are well-stocked with standard supermarket offerings, from organic produce and fresh loaves of bread to canned goods and boxes of cereal, not to mention a wide selection of beer and wine, perfect for an impromptu picnic in nearby Golden Gate Park. 

But Andy Rothschild, who grew up four blocks away in the Inner Richmond and has been a frequent customer for most of his 32 years of life, said he’s never really viewed Arguello Market as a place to buy groceries. 

To him, it’s the mecca of turkey sandwiches in San Francisco.

A hot roasted turkey sandwich on Dutch Crunch at Arguello Market in San Francisco on April 10, 2022. 

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

“I have listened to many people in front of [or] behind me in line place their orders … whenever someone orders something other than a turkey sandwich, I feel sorry for them for doing it wrong,” he said. 

Rothschild won’t come out and say that Arguello Market offers the most out-of-the-box sandwich in town. (There are spots like Deli Board and Turner’s Kitchen for that, he said.) But it’s the no-frills approach that’s kept him coming back for decades. 

“Arguello may have the best singular sandwich,” he said. “It isn’t fancy, but the roast turkey is just so good. Any true fan is getting it on Dutch Crunch, with avocado, and if you want my insider tips, the move is to get it with dark meat and pepper jack.”

Peter Qaqundahat poses for a photo with his father Sal, the owner of Arguello Market on April 10, 2022.

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

Owner Sal Qaqundah, who bought the market in 1984, said the roast turkey sandwich is his best-seller by a long shot. The store makes around 150 turkey sandwiches every day, encompassing about 70% of the orders made at the deli counter. The market also goes through 12 turkeys weighing 25 pounds each during the lunch rush. On a recent visit, I watched the golden brown birds twirl and glisten beneath the heated glow of the rotisserie oven while I placed my order and the savory aroma wafted through every aisle.

Turkeys roasting for sandwiches at Arguello Market. Customers have their choice between light or dark meat layered with their favorite toppings. 

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

“I don’t smell it anymore because I live in it,” Qaqundah said with a laugh. “I’m here almost every day.”

When he moved to Southern California from Palestine as a teenager in 1969, he started working at grocery stores and diners to pay his way through college, including Ralph’s and Denny’s. His second-ever job was at Spires, a 24-hour diner chain that had a $1.49 chicken sandwich special on Monday nights. 

“People lined up outside of the restaurant for that and they were busy from 3-10 p.m. nonstop,” he said. “And because of the quality, the quantity, the service and the price, they kept coming back. It really stuck in my mind.” 

Deli customers order a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market.

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

Qaqundah graduated from Cal State Fullerton with a degree in speech pathology and taught for two years in Huntington Beach. It was a rewarding job, he said, but he wasn’t earning enough money and still had to work nights at various restaurant gigs until 2 a.m. to make ends meet. Around that time, a family friend living in San Francisco mentioned they had spotted a market for sale downtown and encouraged him to check it out.

“I saw it as a chance to start my own business and excel,” Qaqundah said. 

In June of 1975, he packed up all of his things and moved to the city. 

Qaqundah’s first store, Cable Car Market, was on the corner of Bush and Powell streets across from Uncle Vito’s Pizza. It was a runaway success, due in part to the central location and heavy foot traffic, but after about nine years, he lost his lease and was given 30 days to vacate the premises. 

As he hunted around the city in search of a new space, he came upon a now-shuttered market on Chestnut Street called Victor’s. Even though it wasn’t up for sale, he went inside and noticed they were selling fresh whole turkeys, which he found intriguing.

“God works in mysterious ways,” Qaqundah said. “I never forgot it.” 

The sunny exterior of Arguello Market at 782 Arguello Blvd.

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

In 1984, he bought Arguello Market. It was run-down and hadn’t operated as a grocery store since the ’40s, he said, but when he saw the deli counter, he knew it had potential. For one, it reminded him of the chicken sandwich special at Spires and how he wanted to bring something like it to San Francisco.

He remodeled everything, from the light fixtures to the shelving to the flooring and the refrigeration. The deli counter was the only component left untouched, and while he didn’t have the means to duplicate a restaurant-quality chicken sandwich, he decided to try his hand at selling turkey sandwiches. So he started with one bird per day in 1987, and eventually graduated to two and three as the popularity of the special — then just $3.69 — skyrocketed. 

Owner Sal Qaqundaht talks about the food items available in the deli case at Arguello Market.

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

“It was big enough that it could be lunch and dinner for many people,” he said. “I remember telling my customers, ‘The only drawback about this is you’re going to come back again.’” 

Years later, I’d discover just about everyone had an opinion on The Sandwich. When I decided to consult Twitter, I received more than 50 replies with takes ranging from “Best Turkey Sandwich I’ve ever had” to “I was so disappointed” and “it has divided [my] entire household.” 

It’s the best, and I am overdue to eat one. pic.twitter.com/Ly1G0eDrJF

— Jef Poskanzer (@jefposk) April 4, 2022

“It’s above average at best,” one argued. “Yellow Sub is the best sandwich spot in the city and it’s not even close.” 

“[It’s] An indispensable member of San Francisco‘s sandwich ecosystem,” another proclaimed.

An employee cuts pieces of turkey to make a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market in San Francisco on April 10, 2022.

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

Emails and direct messages arrived in my inbox by the dozen. People shared their tried and true advice: Order dark meat only. Try the cranberry sauce. Avocado is a must. Eat it with provolone or pepper jack, topped with pepperoncinis, or as a boxed lunch with potato salad. Order The Sandwich before noon or it’ll taste too dry. Take it out to Golden Gate Park for the ultimate dining experience. 

And, like Rothschild, most insisted that Dutch Crunch was the way to go. 

An employee slices a turkey to make a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

A cut piece of turkey ready to be placed in a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

A hot roasted turkey sandwich being assembled at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

An employee cuts in half a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

An Arguello deli employee makes a hot roasted turkey sandwich. (Douglas Zimmerman / SFGATE)
An Arguello deli employee makes a hot roasted turkey sandwich. (Douglas Zimmerman / SFGATE)

Others sent multiple-paragraph-long odes to the turkey sandwich. For some, it was a point of childhood nostalgia, a trusty cure for hangovers, and a meal they returned to whenever they could, even if they had moved out of San Francisco or to another state.

“I’m not really sure why this sandwich got me so passionate, but here we are …” concluded one message from Sam Johnson, who grew up in the Sunset and is now an attorney with the Tulare County Public Defender’s Office in Visalia. 

Although he’s also not sure how it developed such a loyal following, he suspects Arguello Market’s proximity to the University of San Francisco, where he went to law school, and its access to Golden Gate Park, make it a popular choice. 

An employee wraps a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market.

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

“The Arguello sandwich is one of my favorite things in the city. It’s not flashy or particularly innovative but it’s so great at what it is,” he said. “I always feel at home when I eat it, and whenever I am in town, I try to stop by — even if it’s as I’m about to get on the highway and need to wait the four hours before I get home to enjoy it.”

Pete Bogdis, a former employee of the San Francisco Plumbing Company from 2001 to 2016, said he’s “eaten hundreds of them,” stopping at Arguello Market for lunch almost every time he was working in the area. 

He attributes the popularity of the sandwich to word-of-mouth.

“That’s how I discovered them,” Bogdis said. “My boss brought me there once and I was hooked. I’d tell other tradesmen on jobsites about them, if they were ‘cool.’ Those of us in the know didn’t necessarily want the secret getting out. But over the years, the line got longer and it became common knowledge.”

Qaqundah chalks the hype up to the consistency of his product, which has been about the same since he introduced it 35 years ago, with the occasional improvement made here and there. 

It’s a level of dedication Qaqundah’s son, Peter, admires about his father as he ensures the flavors and quality of ingredients remain familiar to those who passed on the good word and let others in on their neighborhood secret.

“Now, it’s a cult classic, if you will,” said Peter, 33, who has been helping out at the store since he was 12 years old. “He takes a lot of pride in everything he does at the store and is very meticulous and on point.” 

The sandwich starts with bread sourced from Wedemeyer Bakery. Once sliced, each half is slathered with a mixture of mayonnaise and dijon mustard. Then, the carved and seasoned turkey is carefully arranged on top, followed by Kosher pickles, green and red leaf lettuce, a variety of tomatoes (that Qaqundah won’t divulge), and sweet Italian red onions. 

But where did the “world famous” title come from?

Owner Sal Qaqundah holds up one of his branded T-shirts at Arguello Market. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

Over the years, Qaqundah said the turkey sandwich was reviewed by multiple publications, named a “fundamental San Francisco sandwich spot” by Eater and one of the “best fall eats” in the city by Yelp, and was even featured in the first episode of the Travel Channel’s “Shoestring Getaways” series, which concludes with hosts Christine Williams and Jules Hatfield chowing down on the sandwiches under the Golden Gate Bridge. 

But when the popularity of the sandwich took off in the early ’90s, he said he was surprised to find that tourists from as far away as England and South Korea visited Arguello Market after receiving a recommendation from a local. He also discovered that longtime regulars who moved away would often return to the market for a taste of home.  

“Many of them will cry when they come back, whether it’s been a year or five years or 10 years,” he said. “We wanted to keep that legacy alive. We say it’s ‘world famous’ because this is a jewel of San Francisco. It’s like a landmark. We want to keep it going.” 

The sandwich is still as sought-after as it ever was, even though the price is now up to $10.99, partially due to the cost of turkey surging in recent years. Qaqundah said he’s paying three times what he was prior to the pandemic, but it hasn’t hurt sales.

“Last weekend, the line was out the door from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.,” he said. “We had to pause DoorDash.” 

An employee holds a a hot roasted turkey sandwich at Arguello Market in San Francisco, Calif. on Apr. 10, 2022. The market is the self-described home of the ‘World Famous Turkey Sandwich.’

Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE

He doesn’t anticipate things will slow down anytime soon. But in a city transforming as rapidly as San Francisco, it could be that customers are coming in for more than just a convenient lunch. 

“It seems like there’s a tendency these days to change things up and evolve for the sake of staying fresh and not being stale,” Johnson said. “But the turkey sandwich is something that has been there. There is something to be said for that.”

The post How Arguello Market’s ‘world well-known turkey sandwich’ grew to become a cult favourite in San Francisco appeared first on Los Gatos News And Events.

Cityscape in busy Istanbul. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

As a world traveler, I had one goal on hold until three things aligned: finances, timing, and motivation. But with rumors of a travel ban on the horizon, I accepted the reality that money burns, time melts and memories are the only impressions we can cherish.

Before masked smiles and elbow bumps became an international form of communication, my husband Benjamin and I put our hands together in Turkey and gave what was to be our last trip for 18 months. We have longed for the sub-pink side of Turkey by dividing our trip into three parts: City, Country, Coast. It was our own geographical version of “Eat, Pray, Love” without soul searching.

From LAX we traveled non-stop with Turkish Airlines, offering free city tours and hotel accommodation for stops over five hours. Going “all in” for us meant, in part, that this would be a journey of firsts (and possibly lasts), including flying business class. I had to try everything including Turkish delight, turndown service and Versace amenities. Fifteen hours later we landed at Istanbul Airport – the largest in the world costing $12 billion.

We checked into the Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, adorned with marble columns and chandeliers taller than my truck. As the only Ottoman palace hotel on the Bosphorus, it introduced us to this narrow strait between Europe and Asia.

Courtyard view of Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

The best view of the water was from the hotel’s restaurant, Tugra. Black-tie waiters, candlelit tables, and paintings by Fausto Zonaro had my husband wide open in financial anxiety.

Ottoman and Turkish dishes of lamb shank and duck tandir were served with olives in oil, hummus, eggplant, feta and other mezze. Benjamin leaned forward and whispered, “Exhale. An appetizer costs less than $30.”

Living big with no regrets, we chose full sultan mode. During the day we sight-seeed the area, and at night we sank into tasseled pillows as we devoured home-made desserts: dried fruit, flaky baklava, and chewy lokum cubes of pomegranate, orange, and honey.

Calories were burned during our four days in Istanbul with Sea Song Tours. From the meditative Süleymaniye Mosque to the Constantine Column of the Byzantine Hippodrome, history came alive in this tangible textbook.

While Benjamin received insights into religion and architecture, I was mesmerized by some of the 250,000 stray dogs and cats that roamed the city. These healthy looking fur babies were everywhere, passed out on the sidewalk, bellies to the sky. The local government provides food and medical supplies, so technically they are “home” on the doorstep of a 16th-century mosque.

Napping and fashion go hand in hand in Alacatı on Turkey’s Cesme Peninsula. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

How could they not be? Between the mosaics and domes of Hagia Sophia, we too felt the comforting awe of this architectural masterpiece. Built in AD 537, this Orthodox cathedral-turned-Ottoman mosque honors both Christian and Muslim faiths in homage to one of Byzantine’s most important structures.

The iconic Hagia Sophia served as the religious center for the Byzantine world. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

Religious freedom seemed almost celebrated in Istanbul, transforming my preconceived notions of a turbulent nation into one of peace. On the Asian side of the Bosphorus, the bohemian district of Kuzguncuk — known for its colorful townhouses with gingerbread balconies — had mosques, synagogues, and churches practically sharing walls. English services rang out from Christian churches while the Islamic call to prayer rang out from 3,000 mosques in the distance.

In a city of 15 million people, this testimony to religious pluralism and multicultural identity inspired a sense of coexistence and prosperity. Waterfront mansions framing the Bosphorus dwarfed Beverly Hills, but despite the affluence, locals were unpretentious and welcoming, especially in Bomonti.

This Brooklyn of Turkey has a community vibe where everyone knows their neighbor. At the House Hotel we met locals who invited us for Turkish coffee in Halisunasyon and dinner in Batard. We stumbled across farmers markets, the Ara Guler Museum and Glories Chocolate to try truffles with rosehip and lemon.

Stripped of burqas, musculature and din, Istanbul was brilliantly alive, poised in an urban stance with European play. I was addicted to Karakoy, a maritime trade hub that has transformed into a trendy arts, fashion and food district. Cobblestone lanes were lined with funky cafes and shisha bars tucked under grand old apartments covered in ivy and graffiti like the hipster offspring of Marseille and San Francisco.

Paradoxical Istanbul soothed us in the Serefiye Cistern and woke us up in the Grand Bazaar. Among the merchants who haggled copper and carpets, there were courts that offered respite from chaos. Pungent aromas of leather, coffee, tobacco and spice were framed by a vibrancy that dismantled false perceptions of a dark and monochromatic city.

Our second hotel certainly helped. In the Zorlu Center of the Besiktas district, Raffles Istanbul is the core of around 3,000 boutiques, restaurants and galleries. This cosmopolitan property boasts an impressive art collection, Michelin-star chefs and the largest spa in Istanbul.

From the hand-blown chandeliers to the bespoke murals in each room, the design is meticulous with Byzantine silks, Turkish textiles and golden mosaics. After the pan-Asian fusion at Isokyo, we headed to the spa for a traditional hammam treatment.

As if lying naked on a slab of marble wasn’t strange enough, we would then have our hair washed, our bodies scrubbed and bucketfuls of water poured down our thighs. With sandpaper gloves in motion, I rolled over to find Benjamin buried in a mountain of foam. “I think I’m missing a mole,” I whispered.

After the scrub, my skin felt like butter and my hair felt like silk. But once was enough as we embarked on the “land” portion of our journey to Cappadocia.

Fairy chimneys, drawers carved into cliffs and Dr. Seuss-like rock formations sculpted by centuries of wind and rain covered the Anatolian steppes of central Turkey. Beneath this lunar landscape are 36 underground cities including Kaymakli, dating back to 3000 BC.

Fairy chimneys and cliff-hewn drawers of Cappadocia. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

Beneath Cappadocia are 36 underground cities dating back to 3000 BC. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

To maximize our experience we relied on Ismail from Travel Atelier. From the rock sanctuaries in Goreme National Park to the tandir lamb in Aravan Evi, Ismail has delivered on all fronts, including a last minute 4am hot air balloon ride

Soaring 1,500 feet above Rose Valley, we were one of 100 hot air balloons peppering the sky.

More than 100 hot air balloons soar 1,500 feet above Rose Valley. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

Perhaps the most impressive viewpoint of the balloon colony was from our Hotel Argos in Cappadocia. In the mountain village of Uchisar, this ambitious transformation project turned 51 caves into luxurious rooms with reading nooks and private plunge pools.

From their SEKI restaurant you have a wide view of the Pigeon Valley with vineyards, apricot orchards and stone pinnacles sticking out of the ground. In this historic cradle of silence, monks retreated into solitude, and today travelers enter a monastery of silence moved only by the song of nightingales and the wings of doves.

Our journey could have ended happily there, but we headed east to Alacatı on Turkey’s Cesme Peninsula. This seaside playground near İzmir is famous for its beaches, vineyards and stone houses, but it was the boutique hotel Alavya that wooed us.

Six historic homes face an open courtyard lined with white mulberry and olive trees, where a lap pool, garden restaurant, and yoga pavilion find shade under the canopies. The elegant rooms have beamed ceilings, linen robes, patchwork rugs and Carrera marble bathrooms. Our breakfast was almost sinful, with mounds of figs, plums, olives and honey-soaked cheese.

We would never have left our hotel if the city hadn’t been our victorious temptress, enticing us with whitewashed storefronts adorned with bougainvillea. Lazy dogs posed under Greek-blue shutters in Instagram-worthy moments, perfected only by kissing couples, yellow sundresses and gleaming Vespas.

That evening we ate at Asma Yaprağı (Grape Leaf) where Chef Ayse Nur invites guests into her kitchen. Pyramids of Mediterranean and Turkish dishes included braised artichokes, stuffed zucchini flowers, and baked pumpkin with sun-dried tomatoes.

Step into the kitchen of Asma Yapragı and enjoy pyramids of Mediterranean and Turkish dishes. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

Despite our morning craving for beach lounge, we couldn’t leave Alacatı without visiting the wine region. As the birthplace of Vitis vinifera (grape vine), Turkey’s Aegean coast accounts for 20% of the country’s wine production. After an hour’s drive, we arrived in Urla, where we tracked seven vineyards producing award-winning blends such as Urla Vourla and Nero D’Avola.

Finally we got our day in the sun in Bodrum on the south west coast of Turkey. This gateway to beach towns and 5-star resorts has landed us at the Mandarin Oriental. Golf carts whisked guests between nine restaurants, a private beach, and rooms overlooking Paradise Bay.

Like hot air balloons to Cappadocia, so are sailing boats to Bodrum. We joined the crowds and cruised across the mesmerizing peninsula to nestled coves, where we hopped into the turquoise sea from the top sundeck. I must have been snorkeling for five hours, floating over glowing coral and chasing schools of glitter. We ate roast octopus, tuna tartare and lobster tagliolini. And then I stretched out on the bow, rocked to sleep and dreamed of Turkey.

In my dream were utopian visions of a united metropolis with many faces. There were mysterious caves, satin pillows, and dogs and cats living in harmony. I saw a coast bathed in five shades of blue. Hundreds of hot air balloons floated over stone walls carved in time. And in the distance the echoing call of prayers echoed through valleys and ravines.

My reverie ended in a familiar voice.

“Wake up sleepyhead,” Benjamin said. “It’s time to go home.”

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The post Historic, stylish and vibrant Turkey appeared first on Los Gatos News And Events.

As a world traveler, I had one goal on hold until three things aligned: finances, timing, and motivation. But with rumors of a travel ban on the horizon, I accepted the reality that money burns, time melts and memories are the only impressions we can cherish.

Before masked smiles and elbow bumps became an international form of communication, my husband Benjamin and I put our hands together in Turkey and gave what was to be our last trip for 18 months. We have longed for the sub-pink side of Turkey by dividing our trip into three parts: City, Country, Coast. It was our own geographic version of “Eat, Pray, Love” with no self-reflection.

From LAX we traveled non-stop with Turkish Airlines, offering free city tours and hotel accommodation for stops over five hours. Going “all in” for us meant, in part, that this would be a journey of firsts (and possibly lasts), including flying business class. I had to try everything including Turkish delight, turndown service and Versace amenities. Fifteen hours later we landed at Istanbul Airport – the largest in the world costing $12 billion.

We checked into the Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, adorned with marble columns and chandeliers taller than my truck. As the only Ottoman palace hotel on the Bosphorus, it introduced us to this narrow strait between Europe and Asia.

The best view of the water was from the hotel’s restaurant, Tugra. Black-tie waiters, candle-lit tables, and paintings by Fausto Zonaro made me and my husband financially anxious.

Ottoman and Turkish dishes of lamb shank and duck tandir were served with olives in oil, hummus, eggplant, feta and other mezze. Benjamin leaned forward and whispered, “Exhale. An appetizer costs less than $30.”

Living big with no regrets, we chose full sultan mode. During the day we sight-seeed the area, and at night we sank into tasseled pillows as we devoured home-made desserts: dried fruit, flaky baklava, and chewy lokum cubes of pomegranate, orange, and honey.

Calories were burned during our four days in Istanbul with Sea Song Tours. From the meditative Suleymaniye Mosque to the Constantine Column of the Byzantine Hippodrome, history came alive in this tangible textbook.

While Benjamin received insights into religion and architecture, I was mesmerized by some of the 250,000 stray dogs and cats that roamed the city. These healthy looking fur babies were everywhere, passed out on the sidewalk, bellies to the sky. The local government provides food and medical supplies, so technically they are “home” on the doorstep of a 16th-century mosque.

How could they not be? Between the mosaics and domes of Hagia Sophia, we too felt the comforting awe of this architectural masterpiece. Built in AD 537, this Orthodox cathedral-turned-Ottoman mosque honors both Christian and Muslim faiths in homage to one of Byzantine’s most important structures.

Religious freedom seemed almost celebrated in Istanbul, transforming my preconceived notions of a turbulent nation into one of peace. On the Asian side of the Bosphorus, the bohemian district of Kuzguncuk — known for its colorful townhouses with gingerbread balconies — had mosques, synagogues, and churches practically sharing walls. English services rang out from Christian churches while the Islamic call to prayer rang out from 3,000 mosques in the distance.

In a city of 15 million people, this testimony to religious pluralism and multicultural identity inspired a sense of coexistence and prosperity. Waterfront mansions framing the Bosphorus dwarfed Beverly Hills, but despite the affluence, locals were unpretentious and welcoming, especially in Bomonti.

This Brooklyn of Turkey has a community vibe where everyone knows their neighbor. At the House Hotel we met locals who invited us for Turkish coffee in Halisunasyon and dinner in Batard. We stumbled across farmers markets, the Ara Guler Museum and Glories Chocolate to try truffles with rosehip and lemon.

Stripped of burqas, musculature and din, Istanbul was brilliantly alive, poised in an urban stance with European play. I was addicted to Karakoy, a maritime trade hub that has transformed into a trendy arts, fashion and food district. Cobblestone lanes were lined with funky cafes and shisha bars tucked away beneath palatial old apartments veined with ivy and graffiti as if they were the hipster descendants of Marseille and San Francisco.

Paradoxical Istanbul soothed us in the Serefiye Cistern and woke us up in the Grand Bazaar. Among the merchants who haggled copper and carpets, there were courts that offered respite from chaos. Pungent aromas of leather, coffee, tobacco and spice were framed by a vibrancy that dismantled false perceptions of a dark and monochromatic city.

Our second hotel certainly helped. In the Zorlu Center of the Besiktas district, Raffles Istanbul is the core of around 3,000 boutiques, restaurants and galleries. This cosmopolitan property boasts an impressive art collection, Michelin-star chefs and the largest spa in Istanbul.

From the hand-blown chandeliers to the bespoke murals in each room, the design is meticulous with Byzantine silks, Turkish textiles and golden mosaics. After the pan-Asian fusion at Isokyo, we headed to the spa for a traditional hammam treatment.

As if lying naked on a slab of marble wasn’t strange enough, we had our hair washed, bodies scrubbed and bucketfuls of water poured down our thighs. With sandpaper gloves in motion, I rolled over to find Benjamin buried in a mountain of foam. “I think I’m missing a mole,” I whispered.

After the scrub, my skin felt like butter and my hair felt like silk. But once was enough as we embarked on the “land” portion of our journey to Cappadocia.

Fairy chimneys, drawers carved into cliffs and Dr. Seuss-like rock formations sculpted by centuries of wind and rain covered the Anatolian steppes of central Turkey. Beneath this lunar landscape are 36 underground cities including Kaymakli, dating back to 3000 BC.

To maximize our experience we relied on Ismail from Travel Atelier. From the rock sanctuaries in Goreme National Park to the tandir lamb in Aravan Evi, Ismail has delivered on all fronts, including a last minute 4am hot air balloon ride

Soaring 1,500 feet above Rose Valley, we were one of 100 hot air balloons peppering the sky.

Perhaps the most impressive viewpoint of the balloon colony was from our Hotel Argos in Cappadocia. In the mountain village of Uchisar, this ambitious transformation project turned 51 caves into luxurious rooms with reading nooks and private plunge pools.

Her Seki Restaurant has a sweeping view of the Pigeon Valley with vineyards, apricot orchards and stone spiers sticking out of the ground. In this historic cradle of silence, monks retreated into solitude, and today travelers enter a monastery of silence moved only by the song of nightingales and the wings of doves.

Our journey could have ended happily there, but we headed east to Alacatı on Turkey’s Cesme Peninsula. This seaside playground near İzmir is famous for its beaches, vineyards and stone houses, but it was the boutique hotel Alavya that wooed us.

Six historic homes face an open courtyard lined with white mulberry and olive trees, where a lap pool, garden restaurant, and yoga pavilion find shade under the canopies. The elegant rooms have beamed ceilings, linen robes, patchwork rugs and Carrera marble bathrooms. Our breakfast was almost sinful, with heaps of figs, plums, olives and honey-soaked cheese.

We would never have left our hotel if the city hadn’t been our victorious temptress, enticing us with whitewashed storefronts adorned with bougainvillea. Lazy dogs posed under Greek-blue shutters in Instagram-worthy moments, perfected only by kissing couples, yellow sundresses and gleaming Vespas.

That evening we ate at Asma Yaprağı (Grape Leaf) where Chef Ayse Nur invites guests into her kitchen. Pyramids of Mediterranean and Turkish dishes included braised artichokes, stuffed zucchini flowers, and baked pumpkin with sun-dried tomatoes.

Despite our morning craving for beach lounge, we couldn’t leave Alacatı without visiting the wine region. As the birthplace of Vitis vinifera (grape vine), Turkey’s Aegean coast accounts for 20% of the country’s wine production. After an hour’s drive, we arrived in Urla, where we tracked seven vineyards producing award-winning blends such as Urla Vourla and Nero D’Avola.

Finally we got our day in the sun in Bodrum on the south west coast of Turkey. This gateway to beach towns and five-star resorts has landed us at the Mandarin Oriental. Golf carts whisked guests between nine restaurants, a private beach, and rooms overlooking Paradise Bay.

Like hot air balloons to Cappadocia, so are sailing boats to Bodrum. We joined the crowds and cruised across the mesmerizing peninsula to nestled coves, where we hopped into the turquoise sea from the top sun deck. I must have snorkeled for five hours while floating over glowing coral and chasing schools of glitter. We ate roasted squid, tuna tartare and lobster tagliolini. And then I stretched out on the bow, rocked to sleep and dreamed of Turkey.

In my dream were utopian visions of a united metropolis with many faces. There were mysterious caves, satin pillows, and dogs and cats living in harmony. I saw a coast painted five shades of blue. Hundreds of hot air balloons floated over stone walls carved in time. And in the distance the echoing call of prayers echoed through the valleys and canyons.

My reverie ended in a familiar voice. “Wake up, sleepyhead,” said Benjamin. “It’s time to go home.”

The post Historic, stylish and vibrant, Turkey is ever a land of lots appeared first on Los Gatos News And Events.

As a world traveler, I had one goal on hold until three things aligned: finances, timing, and motivation. But with rumors of a travel ban on the horizon, I accepted the reality that money burns, time melts and memories are the only impressions we can cherish.

Before masked smiles and elbow bumps became an international form of communication, my husband Benjamin and I put our hands together in Turkey and gave what was to be our last trip for 18 months. We have longed for the sub-pink side of Turkey by dividing our trip into three parts: City, Country, Coast. It was our own geographical version of “Eat, Pray, Love” without soul searching.

From LAX we traveled non-stop with Turkish Airlines, offering free city tours and hotel accommodation for stops over five hours. For us, being all-in meant in part that this would be a journey of firsts (and possibly lasts), including flying business class. I had to try everything including Turkish delight, turndown service and Versace amenities. Fifteen hours later we landed at Istanbul Airport – the largest in the world costing $12 billion.

We checked into the Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, adorned with marble columns and chandeliers taller than my truck. As the only Ottoman palace hotel on the Bosphorus, it introduced us to this narrow strait between Europe and Asia.

The best view of the water was from the hotel’s restaurant, Tugra. Black-tie waiters, candlelit tables, and paintings by Fausto Zonaro had my husband wide open in financial anxiety.

Ottoman and Turkish dishes of lamb shank and duck tandir were served with olives in oil, hummus, eggplant, feta and other mezze. Benjamin leaned forward and whispered, “Exhale. An appetizer costs less than $30.”

Living big with no regrets, we chose full sultan mode. During the day we sight-seeed the area, and at night we sank into tasseled pillows as we devoured home-made desserts: dried fruit, flaky baklava, and chewy lokum cubes of pomegranate, orange, and honey.

Calories were burned during our four days in Istanbul with Sea Song Tours. From the meditative Süleymaniye Mosque to the Constantine Column of the Byzantine Hippodrome, history came alive in this tangible textbook.

While Benjamin received insights into religion and architecture, I was mesmerized by some of the 250,000 stray dogs and cats that roamed the city. These healthy looking fur babies were everywhere, passed out on the sidewalk, bellies to the sky. The local government provides food and medical supplies, so technically they are “home” on the doorstep of a 16th-century mosque.

How could they not be? Between the mosaics and domes of Hagia Sophia, we too felt the comforting awe of this architectural masterpiece. Built in AD 537, this Orthodox cathedral-turned-Ottoman mosque honors both Christian and Muslim faiths in homage to one of Byzantine’s most important structures.

Religious freedom seemed almost celebrated in Istanbul, transforming my preconceived notions of a turbulent nation into one of peace. On the Asian side of the Bosphorus, the artisan district of Kuzguncuk — known for its colorful townhouses with gingerbread balconies — had mosques, synagogues, and churches that practically shared walls. English services rang out from Christian churches while the Islamic call to prayer rang out from 3,000 mosques in the distance.

In a city of 15 million people, this testimony to religious pluralism and multicultural identity inspired a sense of coexistence and prosperity. Waterfront mansions framing the Bosphorus dwarfed Beverly Hills, but despite the affluence, locals were unpretentious and welcoming, especially in Bomonti.

This Brooklyn of Turkey has a community vibe where everyone knows their neighbor. At the House Hotel we met locals who invited us for Turkish coffee in Halisunasyon and dinner in Batard. We stumbled across farmers markets, the Ara Guler Museum and Glories Chocolate to try truffles with rosehip and lemon.

Stripped of burqas, musculature and din, Istanbul was brilliantly alive, poised in an urban stance with European play. I was addicted to Karakoy, a maritime trade hub that has transformed into a trendy arts, fashion and food district. Cobblestone lanes were lined with funky cafes and shisha bars tucked under grand old apartments covered in ivy and graffiti like the hipster descendants of Marseille and San Francisco.

Paradoxical Istanbul soothed us in the Serefiye Cistern and woke us up in the Grand Bazaar. Among the merchants who haggled copper and carpets, there were courts that offered respite from chaos. Pungent aromas of leather, coffee, tobacco and spice were framed by a vibrancy that dismantled false perceptions of a dark and monochromatic city.

Our second hotel certainly helped. In the Zorlu Center of the Besiktas district, Raffles Istanbul is the core of around 3,000 boutiques, restaurants and galleries. This cosmopolitan property boasts an impressive art collection, Michelin-star chefs and the largest spa in Istanbul.

From the hand-blown chandeliers to the bespoke murals in each room, the design is meticulous with Byzantine silks, Turkish textiles and golden mosaics. After the pan-Asian fusion at Isokyo, we headed to the spa for a traditional hammam treatment.

As if lying naked on a slab of marble wasn’t strange enough, we would then have our hair washed, our bodies scrubbed and bucketfuls of water poured down our thighs. With sandpaper gloves in motion, I rolled over to find Benjamin buried in a mountain of foam. “I think I’m missing a mole,” I whispered.

After the scrub, my skin felt like butter and my hair felt like silk. But once was enough as we embarked on the “land” portion of our journey to Cappadocia.

Fairy chimneys, drawers carved into cliffs and Dr. Seuss-like rock formations sculpted by centuries of wind and rain covered the Anatolian steppes of central Turkey. Beneath this lunar landscape are 36 underground cities including Kaymakli, dating back to 3000 BC.

To maximize our experience we relied on Ismail from Travel Atelier. From the rock sanctuaries in Goreme National Park to the tandir lamb in Aravan Evi, Ismail has delivered on all fronts, including a last minute 4am hot air balloon ride

Soaring 1,500 feet above Rose Valley, we were one of 100 hot air balloons peppering the sky.

Perhaps the most impressive viewpoint of the balloon colony was from our Hotel Argos in Cappadocia. In the mountain village of Uchisar, this ambitious transformation project turned 51 caves into luxurious rooms with reading nooks and private plunge pools.

From their SEKI restaurant you have a wide view of the Pigeon Valley with vineyards, apricot orchards and stone pinnacles sticking out of the ground. In this historic cradle of silence, monks retreated into solitude, and today travelers enter a monastery of silence moved only by the song of nightingales and the wings of doves.

Our journey could have ended happily there, but we headed east to Alacatı on Turkey’s Cesme Peninsula. This seaside playground near İzmir is famous for its beaches, vineyards and stone houses, but it was the boutique hotel Alavya that wooed us.

Six historic homes face an open courtyard lined with white mulberry and olive trees, where a lap pool, garden restaurant, and yoga pavilion find shade under the canopies. The elegant rooms have beamed ceilings, linen bathrobes, patchwork rugs and bathrooms with Carrera marble. Our breakfast was almost sinful, with mounds of figs, plums, olives and honey-soaked cheese.

We would never have left our hotel if the city hadn’t been our victorious temptress, enticing us with whitewashed storefronts adorned with bougainvillea. Lazy dogs posed under Greek-blue shutters in Instagram-worthy moments, perfected only by kissing couples, yellow sundresses and gleaming Vespas.

That evening we ate at Asma Yaprağı (Grape Leaf) where Chef Ayse Nur invites guests into her kitchen. Pyramids of Mediterranean and Turkish dishes included braised artichokes, stuffed zucchini flowers, and baked pumpkin with sun-dried tomatoes.

Despite our morning craving for beach lounge, we couldn’t leave Alacatı without visiting the wine region. As the birthplace of Vitis vinifera (grape vine), Turkey’s Aegean coast accounts for 20% of the country’s wine production. After an hour’s drive, we arrived in Urla, where we tracked seven vineyards producing award-winning blends such as Urla Vourla and Nero D’Avola.

Finally we got our day in the sun in Bodrum on the south west coast of Turkey. This gateway to beach towns and 5-star resorts has landed us at the Mandarin Oriental. Golf carts whisked guests between nine restaurants, a private beach, and rooms overlooking Paradise Bay.

Like hot air balloons to Cappadocia, so are sailing boats to Bodrum. We joined the crowds and cruised across the mesmerizing peninsula to nestled coves, where we hopped into the turquoise sea from the top sun deck. I must have been snorkeling for five hours, floating over glowing coral and chasing schools of glitter. We ate roast octopus, tuna tartare and lobster tagliolini. And then I stretched out on the bow, rocked to sleep and dreamed of Turkey.

In my dream were utopian visions of a united metropolis with many faces. There were mysterious caves, satin pillows, and dogs and cats living in harmony. I saw a coast bathed in five shades of blue. Hundreds of hot air balloons floated over stone walls carved in time. And in the distance the echoing call of prayers echoed through valleys and ravines.

My reverie ended in a familiar voice.

“Wake up sleepyhead,” Benjamin said. “It’s time to go home.”

—-

when you go

MEAL

Tugra restaurant

www.kempinski.com/en/istanbul/ciragan-palace/dining/tugra/

Isokyo

www.isokyo.com

SEKI

www.argosincappadocia.com/en/dining/seki-restaurant.html

Aravan Evi

www.aravan.com

grape leaf

www.asmayapragi.com.tr

STAY

Cıragan Palace Kempinski

www.kempinski.com/en/istanbul/ciragan-palace

Raffles Istanbul

www.raffles.com/istanbul

House Hotel Bomonti

www.househotels.com

Argos in Cappadocia

www.argosincappadocia.com

Alavya

www.alavya.com.tr

Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum

www.mandarinoriental.com/bodrum

VISIT

Sea Song Tours

www.seasong.com

travel studio

www.travelatelier.com

Turkish Airlines

www.turkishairlines.com

—-

About the writer

Marlise Kast-Myers (marlisekast.com) is a San Diego-based writer and journalist. She and her husband live on the historic Betty Crocker Estate where they operate Brick n Barn (bricknbarn.com).

The iconic Hagia Sophia served as the religious center for the Byzantine world. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

Fairy chimneys and cliff-hewn drawers of Cappadocia. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

More than 100 hot air balloons soar 1,500 feet above Rose Valley. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

Napping and fashion go hand in hand in Alacatı on Turkey’s Cesme Peninsula. (Benjamin Myers/TNS)

The post Historic, fashionable and vibrant, Turkey ever a land of loads appeared first on Los Gatos News And Events.

As a world traveler, I had one goal on hold until three things aligned: finances, timing, and motivation. But with rumors of a travel ban on the horizon, I accepted the reality that money burns, time melts and memories are the only impressions we can cherish.

Before masked smiles and elbow bumps became an international form of communication, my husband Benjamin and I put our hands together in Turkey and gave what was to be our last trip for 18 months. We have longed for the sub-pink side of Turkey by dividing our trip into three parts: City, Country, Coast. It was our own geographical version of “Eat, Pray, Love” without soul searching.

From LAX we traveled non-stop with Turkish Airlines, offering free city tours and hotel accommodation for stops over five hours. For us, being all-in meant in part that this would be a journey of firsts (and possibly lasts), including flying business class. I had to try everything including Turkish delight, turndown service and Versace amenities. Fifteen hours later we landed at Istanbul Airport – the largest in the world costing $12 billion.

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We checked into the Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, adorned with marble columns and chandeliers taller than my truck. As the only Ottoman palace hotel on the Bosphorus, it introduced us to this narrow strait between Europe and Asia.

The best view of the water was from the hotel’s restaurant, Tugra. Black-tie waiters, candlelit tables, and paintings by Fausto Zonaro had my husband wide open in financial anxiety.

Ottoman and Turkish dishes of lamb shank and duck tandir were served with olives in oil, hummus, eggplant, feta and other mezze. Benjamin leaned forward and whispered, “Exhale. An appetizer costs less than $30.”

Living big with no regrets, we chose full sultan mode. During the day we sight-seeed the area, and at night we sank into tasseled pillows as we devoured home-made desserts: dried fruit, flaky baklava, and chewy lokum cubes of pomegranate, orange, and honey.

Calories were burned during our four days in Istanbul with Sea Song Tours. From the meditative Süleymaniye Mosque to the Constantine Column of the Byzantine Hippodrome, history came alive in this tangible textbook.

While Benjamin received insights into religion and architecture, I was mesmerized by some of the 250,000 stray dogs and cats that roamed the city. These healthy looking fur babies were everywhere, passed out on the sidewalk, bellies to the sky. The local government provides food and medical supplies, so technically they are “home” on the doorstep of a 16th-century mosque.

How could they not be? Between the mosaics and domes of Hagia Sophia, we too felt the comforting awe of this architectural masterpiece. Built in AD 537, this Orthodox cathedral-turned-Ottoman mosque honors both Christian and Muslim faiths in homage to one of Byzantine’s most important structures.

Religious freedom seemed almost celebrated in Istanbul, transforming my preconceived notions of a turbulent nation into one of peace. On the Asian side of the Bosphorus, the bohemian district of Kuzguncuk — known for its colorful townhouses with gingerbread balconies — had mosques, synagogues, and churches practically sharing walls. English services rang out from Christian churches while the Islamic call to prayer rang out from 3,000 mosques in the distance.

In a city of 15 million people, this testimony to religious pluralism and multicultural identity inspired a sense of coexistence and prosperity. Waterfront mansions framing the Bosphorus dwarfed Beverly Hills, but despite the affluence, locals were unpretentious and welcoming, especially in Bomonti.

This Brooklyn of Turkey has a community vibe where everyone knows their neighbor. At the House Hotel we met locals who invited us for Turkish coffee in Halisunasyon and dinner in Batard. We stumbled across farmers markets, the Ara Guler Museum and Glories Chocolate to try truffles with rosehip and lemon.

Stripped of burqas, musculature and din, Istanbul was brilliantly alive, poised in an urban stance with European play. I was addicted to Karakoy, a maritime trade hub that has transformed into a trendy arts, fashion and food district. Cobblestone lanes were lined with funky cafes and shisha bars tucked under grand old apartments covered in ivy and graffiti like the hipster descendants of Marseille and San Francisco.

Paradoxical Istanbul soothed us in the Serefiye Cistern and woke us up in the Grand Bazaar. Among the merchants who haggled copper and carpets, there were courts that offered respite from chaos. Pungent aromas of leather, coffee, tobacco and spice were framed by a vibrancy that dismantled false perceptions of a dark and monochromatic city.

Our second hotel certainly helped. In the Zorlu Center of the Besiktas district, Raffles Istanbul is the core of around 3,000 boutiques, restaurants and galleries. This cosmopolitan property boasts an impressive art collection, Michelin-star chefs and the largest spa in Istanbul.

From the hand-blown chandeliers to the bespoke murals in each room, the design is meticulous with Byzantine silks, Turkish textiles and golden mosaics. After the pan-Asian fusion at Isokyo, we headed to the spa for a traditional hammam treatment.

As if lying naked on a slab of marble wasn’t strange enough, we would then have our hair washed, our bodies scrubbed and bucketfuls of water poured down our thighs. With sandpaper gloves in motion, I rolled over to find Benjamin buried in a mountain of foam. “I think I’m missing a mole,” I whispered.

After the scrub, my skin felt like butter and my hair felt like silk. But once was enough as we embarked on the “land” portion of our journey to Cappadocia.

Fairy chimneys, drawers carved into cliffs and Dr. Seuss-like rock formations sculpted by centuries of wind and rain covered the Anatolian steppes of central Turkey. Beneath this lunar landscape are 36 underground cities including Kaymakli, dating back to 3,000 BC.

To maximize our experience we relied on Ismail from Travel Atelier. From the rock sanctuaries in Goreme National Park to the tandir lamb in Aravan Evi, Ismail has delivered on all fronts, including a last minute 4am hot air balloon ride

Soaring 1,500 feet above Rose Valley, we were one of 100 hot air balloons peppering the sky.

Perhaps the most impressive viewpoint of the balloon colony was from our Hotel Argos in Cappadocia. In the mountain village of Uchisar, this ambitious transformation project turned 51 caves into luxurious rooms with reading nooks and private plunge pools.

From their SEKI restaurant you have a wide view of the Pigeon Valley with vineyards, apricot orchards and stone pinnacles sticking out of the ground. In this historic cradle of silence, monks retreated into solitude, and today travelers enter a monastery of silence moved only by the song of nightingales and the wings of doves.

Our journey could have ended happily there, but we headed east to Alacatı on Turkey’s Cesme Peninsula. This seaside playground near İzmir is famous for its beaches, vineyards and stone houses, but it was the boutique hotel Alavya that wooed us.

Six historic homes face an open courtyard lined with white mulberry and olive trees, where a lap pool, garden restaurant, and yoga pavilion find shade under the canopies. The elegant rooms have beamed ceilings, linen bathrobes, patchwork rugs and bathrooms with Carrera marble. Our breakfast was almost sinful, with mounds of figs, plums, olives and honey-soaked cheese.

We would never have left our hotel if the city hadn’t been our victorious temptress, enticing us with whitewashed storefronts adorned with bougainvillea. Lazy dogs posed under Greek-blue shutters in Instagram-worthy moments, perfected only by kissing couples, yellow sundresses and gleaming Vespas.

That evening we ate at Asma Yaprağı (Grape Leaf) where cook Ayse Nur invites guests into her kitchen. Pyramids of Mediterranean and Turkish dishes included braised artichokes, stuffed zucchini flowers, and baked pumpkin with sun-dried tomatoes.

Despite our morning craving for beach lounge, we couldn’t leave Alacatı without visiting the wine region. As the birthplace of Vitis vinifera (grape vine), Turkey’s Aegean coast accounts for 20% of the country’s wine production. After an hour’s drive, we arrived in Urla, where we tracked seven vineyards producing award-winning blends such as Urla Vourla and Nero D’Avola.

Finally we got our day in the sun in Bodrum on the south west coast of Turkey. This gateway to beach towns and 5-star resorts has landed us at the Mandarin Oriental. Golf carts whisked guests between nine restaurants, a private beach, and rooms overlooking Paradise Bay.

Like hot air balloons to Cappadocia, so are sailing boats to Bodrum. We joined the crowds and cruised across the mesmerizing peninsula to nestled coves, where we hopped into the turquoise sea from the top sun deck. I must have been snorkeling for five hours, floating over glowing coral and chasing schools of glitter. We ate roast octopus, tuna tartare and lobster tagliolini. And then I stretched out on the bow, rocked to sleep and dreamed of Turkey.

In my dream were utopian visions of a united metropolis with many faces. There were mysterious caves, satin pillows, and dogs and cats living in harmony. I saw a coast bathed in five shades of blue. Hundreds of hot air balloons floated over stone walls carved in time. And in the distance the echoing call of prayers echoed through valleys and ravines.

My reverie ended in a familiar voice.

“Wake up sleepyhead,” Benjamin said. “It’s time to go home.”

The post Historic, stylish and vibrant: Turkey is ever a land of lots | Way of life appeared first on Los Gatos News And Events.